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Avanti gas line rust (fire) problem
http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/orig_gas_lines.txt
This
site
has
the
same
information as below. Gary Crabtree
The problem is so
potentially dangerous for owners of at least Studebaker Avantis 9I
cannot speak
to the Avanti lls) on which the original fuel lines have rot been
replaced,
that I an going to cut and paste from my book the section where I
describe
the Problem and the solution - replace the fuel lines. I aPo1ogize for
this
being so long, but take this seriously. It could save your car from
burning up
or your house or shop from burning down. It could save some lives. Here
goes from p. 56 of my book: Finally, check the fuel
lines at the point where they pass through the body and spring hanger
bracket
in front of the left rear wheel. you will need to remove the wheel to
adequately inspect this area. Notice how both lines are encased in
rubber tubing
(at least they will be if the lines are still original). Apparently the
lines were
encased in this rubber tubing to protect them from rocks that might hit
them
from the tires or from the rubbing action that might take place inside
the
bracket.
I am sure that made good
sense to Studebaker engineers, but what they did not count on is that
People
like you and me would still be driving these cars almost forty years
later.
Over time, moisture has gotten between the rubber and the tubing and
has been
the best possible breeding ground for rust. If your fuel lines in this
area
have not been properly replaced, you almost certainty have a disaster
just
waiting to happen. remember, the return line is pumping fuel back to
the tank—under
pressure—which means that the minute a leak occurs in that line it
could be
spraying gas all over the place, including onto hot, exhaust system
parts. Lest you
think I am being an alarmist, do a little test. Carefully cut away
about an inch of the
rubber cover at the end behind the rear wheel. What kind of shape is
the steel in
there? Mine was almost paper—thin, and this is not at all unusual
on cars still having the original fuel lines.
When you are convinced that it is
time to replace these lines, here is what you will need and how to
do it. First, drain all the fuel out of your tank. Look along the outer
side
of the frame in the general area of the driver’s door, and you should
see a
brass Tee with a drain plug. Taking all the common sense precautions,
drain the
fuel and transfer it to a fuel storage can. remove all the routing
clamps that hold the fuel lines in place and mark the threaded holes in
the
frame with chalk so you can easily find them again when installing the
new
lines. It will also help if you will carefully observe the routing of
the line; and
if it is to be some months before you install the new ones, you might
want
to draw a “map” or take some pictures before ripping out the old lines.
Now here is what you will
need to replace those lines. For the supply line you will need four
pieces
of 3/8” O.D. brake line in the following lengths and sequence working
from
back to front: 30”; union; 40”; Tee with drain plug; 60”; union; 20”
piece
cut to length at the front for the rubber tubing that goes to the fuel
pimp.
For the return fuel line,
us three pieces of 1/4” O.D. Brake line in the following lengths and
sequence, working from back to front: 63” (cut to 55”); union; 12”;
union; 60”
cut to length at the fuel pump.
It naturally is easier to
install these with the body off, but it can be done with the body on.
In the
case of the supply line I found it easiest to work from the drain Tee
to the
front and the rear, putting in the necessary bends as you thread the
tubing
into place. With the return line, I cut the 60” piece to 55” and worked
from
the area where it connected to the rubber fuel line that goes to the
tank return
at the left end of the cross memter, down the side rail through the
spring
bracket and then on forward.
If you are a stickler for
authenticity (and that’s the way to maximize Your Avanti’s value), you
will want to install the new pieces of rubber protective hose on the
tubing in
front of the rear wheel. Measure the length of the old protective
pieces and buy
new rubber tubing of the correct ID to slip over the l/4” and 3/8”
metal
tubing. Since both pieces of tubing have had the fitting end cut off at
the rear
cross-member end, you can slip the rubber tubing on from that end down
to the area
where it belongs. Use a little silicone grease to lubricate the pieces
if
the fit is too tight.
But you are not done
until you have done one more thing. As a safety measure, use hose
clamps or black
silicone rubber cement to seal off the area between the protective
rubber
tubing and the metal tubing that runs through it. Yes, do both ends.
You do not
want this to once again become the breeding ground for rust. I used the
silicone
rubber approach so it would not disturb the appearance of
authenticity.
One last detail on the
installation of the steel fuel line. At the left front corner of the
engine, do
not let the fuel line touch, either the head or the engine block. If it
does
touch, heat will be transferred to the fuel line and cause gas in the
line to
boil, thus causing vapor lock. Also avoid allowing the line to touch
the power
steer pump body.
Okay, everyone, go check
this out on your car now. I will be curious as to how many still have
the
original cased in rubber tubing in front of the driver's side rear
wheel and how many have rusty fuel lines hidden beneath that rubber.
4/5/2005 4:46 PM page 1 of 1
Stan Gundry, Author / Publisher