changed Oct 24th 2008
Grease for manual steering box:

The grease is a synthetic, aluminum complex grease originally designed to lubricate industrial gear boxes.

Chemically it compares favorably with Kendall C-999. Soap content is same, structure the same, no fillers, higher rating on Timken test, viscosity index the same, dropping point much higher, penetration unworked is  about the same.

Manual Steering box grease  Part/number 801651 Semi-Fluid Steering Box Greaseis an ultra tough,aluminum complex grease designed to lubricate manual steering boxes. Note: One 12 oz. bottle is generally enough to fill an empty steering box. It may also be used to top off a par-tially full box ..$19.95 each

order at Studebaker International INC.
97 North 150 West, Greenfield, IN 46140-8562    --OR--
For inquiries, please call our customer service at (317) 462-3124. ordering online You may now place an order with us via the internet, either by going to our website or sending us an e-mail. Our web page address is (http://www.studebaker-intl.com). Our e-mail address for orders and info is (info@studebaker-intl.com).We’ll usually respond by e-mail the next working day.

Title, vin numbers for vehicles

There are two numbers used for the vin on a title: 1. The serial number that is in the cab of a truck under the seat in the step well. In a car the serial number will be on the drivers side door sill. 2. The engine number for trucks or cars may be the vin number  used on the title. Either number is OK as long as it matches the vein number on the title.

6 to 12 volt conversion guide / information  - lastest change Sep 20th, 08

Randy Rundle has published an excellent booklet. The official 12 volt conversion guide. It thoroughly and safely convert 6 volt systems to 12 volts. I strongly recommend anyone interested in the topic to send Rany a check for $10.0 (includes postage) and ask for a copy.
Randy Rundle
Fifth avenue Antique Auto Parts
415 Court St.
Clay Center KS 67432

E-mail: Randy Rundle <fifthave@oz-online.net>,  phone785-632-3450
Randy also has a catalog of materials available that will help in the conversion.

Alternator Swap
GM Wiring 

Updated 05-19-2006
On the back of the alternator is the battery lead wire. Usually a red insulator but not always, and on the SIDE of the case is a place for a 2 wire plastic plug. The plug leads are parallel with the edge of the case. IF you find an alternator with the 2 wire spades IN LINE with the fan, this is the older style WITHOUT the internal regulator. Where this thing plugs in cast on the case below the opening for the plug should be a number 1 and 2 below the respective terminals. Wire #1 goes to the key switch accessory terminal with a (10 ohm 10 watt) in line resister ((if you have an old style key switch that does not have an accessory terminal you will need the Radio Shack part number 276-1661 diode to put in line with the #1 wire. It is installed with the stripe towards the alternator. This will allow the car to stop when your key is turned off)), this wire is HOT with the key in the RUN position, BUT NOT THE START POSITION. Wire #2 can be hooked directly to the big battery wire on the back of the case, but should be connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid if the wire run is from one side of the car to the other. (This is because if the alternator  output is high there will be a voltage drop of about 1 volt from the alternator to the battery starter solenoid terminal and the rest of the car components will not have the correct voltage during high charging rates). Wire #2 is a sense voltage source for the regulator. The idiot light is rather unique. the light is a small dash lamp bulb on a special plug in base. NORMAL lights require a ground and a hot wire. THIS LIGHT IS NOT GROUNDED, instead both leads are insulated from the car body. One side goes to the key switch, where it is fed 12 volts when the key is ON, and the other goes to #1 on the alternator. With the key ON and the engine not running, the light lights up, as there is a voltage difference between the 2 leads. AS the engine is running this wire has 12 volts across its entire length and the lamp goes out, as BOTH LEADS have the same voltage, when the alternator is charging. If the alternator quits charging, then this wire loses its voltage and the light comes one says I AIN'T WORKING, so you know something is wrong. Usually on the GM's the battery wire off the back of the alternator goes to the battery side terminal of the starter solenoid. There is an in line fuse here most often on the originals, consisting of a fusible link. Ditto for the headlights and the rest of the cars wiring needs. If you have an ammeter, make certain that the STARTER DRAW IS NOT PUT ACROSS THE TERMINALS OF THE AMMETER. The location of the ammeter can depend on what you want to know. There are 2 places to put it, which I won't get to here. A normal GM internal regulator alternator can have an output from 45-70 amps depending on several variables. By changing the internal windings and rotor it is possible to get 120-140 amps, but the life is shortened. You can also have a self excited alternator, by changing the regulator and then you have NO little wire plug to worry about, Just the big battery wire. Speaking of which, this battery wire MUST BE 10 gauge minimum and I like to solder the terminals on the end. I don't trust crimp connections. If you have to run this wire a long ways, then the wire MUST BE BIGGER. Delco manuals sometimes call for #1 wire sizes for some alternators and 3/0 for some starters, but you OUGHT TO SEE THE BATTERIES!!!The following is a picture of the wiring for the new alternator with old style key and new style key with an example of the original wiring found in most Studebaker Hawks or Larks. You will need to check your wiring diagram to make sure the wiring is the same as that show in the picture below.

Mopar

What might cause a vibration or miss in a 259 / 289 v-08  in a pickup that has been rebuilt with all parts new except the camshaft. The vibration can be felt in both the cab and steering wheel. A new second 259 engine was put in the pickup with a new clutch and flywheel but the vibration was still in the truck?

1.  The engine mounts can cause this type problem if they are installed without the steel Sleeves on the bolts, because the bolts can be over tightened which will squash the rubber portion of the mounts and the vibration will be transferred to the frame. Also check external parts like the exhaust pipe or clutch linkage rubbing on the frame.  2.  Loosen (or remove) the fan belt and run the engine to see if the vibration goes away with the water pump and generator / alternator not rotating.  3.  A bad distributor or carburetor can cause a vibration. 4.  Check the spark plug wire routing: When you route the wires on the left side, do not run #5 and #7 together or a spark may be induced in #7 when #5 fires. That can cause the incoming charge in #7 to ignite early. The 259 and 289 v-8's both have a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with the cylinders numbered from the front of the engine left side (drivers side) 1, 3, 5, 7 and right side 2. 4. 6. 8. As you can see the firing order will fire #5 then #7 and that is the reason for the special routing of the #5 and #7 ignition wires.  5.  Make sure the valves are not too tight. Set the intake to .025 and the exhaust to .027, I do not prefer setting them with the engine idling. 6.  Slightly retarded cam or ignition timing will not induce a vibration, although advanced ignition timing might. After the valves are adjusted the compression should be checked to be sure all cylinders are reasonably equal and then check the timing to insure it is set to IGN with the engine warm and at idle: 500 RPM or so. 7.  Check the vibration dampener on the front of the crankshaft to make sure it is not installed backwards. The holes are offset to prevent this, but they aren't offset so much that a person couldn't distort the rubber cushions and install it backwards. The engine mounts on trucks hold the engines more firmly than passenger cars, so dodge pickup truck mounts can be adapted to the Studebakers and give the truck a little smoother feel.

What can cause a 1953 commander 232 v-8 engine to vapor lock or stall at low speed?

The early v-8s with their high-mounted fuel pumps and six-volt electrics offer the greatest challenge for restarting a hot engine. 1. The ignition system needs to be checked to make sure it is providing spark to the plugs when the engine won't restart before looking at the fuel system. 2. Vapor lock occurs when the fuel begins to vaporize before it is actually distributed by the carburetor, usually because it has been overheated somehow. Try to cool everything down. Start by installing an insulator block or stack of base gaskets under the carburetor. Thickness is limited by hood clearance, but even a little bit helps. 3. Make sure the fuel lines aren't touching hot parts of the engine, and wrap them with strips of that shiny metal duct tape or fiberglass tape. Try running a flex hose from behind or under the grill directly to the air cleaner. 4. Check the heat riser valve at the outlet of the right exhaust manifold. The weight should be resting in the up position when the engine is cold and in the down position when the engine is at operating temperature.If it is not operating correctly It will continue to force hot exhaust gases through the intake manifold passage under the carburetor and cause the fuel to percolate in the carburetor. it will need to be replaced. 5. Coolant being expelled through the radiator overflow tube during idling indicates that cooling system maintenance is needed. Install a 160 degree thermostat and check the radiator cap to make sure it will hold 7 PSI. If the engine temperature seems to run above the normal range, have the radiator cleaned and tested Proper coolant level for vehicles without a coolant recovery tank is an inch or two below the filler neck. 6. Remove the three soft plugs (also called freeze plugs) on both sides of the engine block. Clean out the block internally through those holes using hand digging with strong bent wires and high pressure washing. Bent coat hangers work fine for this digging. 7.  Make sure the radiator fan shroud is  in place for proper cooling.  8. Try premium gasoline or diluting the gasoline with diesel in a ratio of about 1 to 15. 9. Finally, test the fuel pump per the shop manual. Fuel pumps that do not pass all three tests (pressure, vacuum, volume) will contribute to vapor lock.  Also check the fuel pump push rod for wear, or binding / interference from any oil line fittings that tap into the stand pipe on which the pump is mounted. If you still feel a need to make modifications see the item below for adding a return line to vent vaporized fuel.

What might be suggested to cure the chronic vapor lock on a 1964 cruiser with air conditioning?

Plum the car like a Jet-Thrust powered car. Drop the fuel tank and have a 1/8-27NPT bung soldered to the upper left corner.  Screw a 1/4" hose fitting into the bung. This would be a good time to change the filler neck and fuel line hoses to new ones that are compatible with today's oxygenated fuel. Check the tank for leaks or weak areas and have it treated / repaired as necessary. Then reinstall the tank.Run a 1/4" steel line on the left side of the frame, mirroring the fuel line along the right side. Bring the line up next to the fuel line going to the carburetor from the pump. Install a fuel filter that has a return fitting coming out the side, the type used on many Chrysler and Jeep products in the late 70's and early 80's.  (See note that follows) Use a short piece of 1/4" fuel rated hose to connect that "vapor-side" fitting to your newly installed return line. Take a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel hose and slit it length wise with knife. Slip that slit hose over the steel line from the pump to the carburetor and secure it with some small wire ties. That should cure your vapor lock problem.

NOTE: There are 4 applicable NAPA in line fuel filters with 5/16" fuel line tubes in and out with a 1/4" vapor return port: NAPA numbers are 3040, 3054, 3082, and 3086. The difference among these filters is the position of the vapor return port, so pick one that will fit your vapor return line connection as you have configured it on the car.  For high performance cars, NAPA filter #3041 has a 3/8" tube in and out.  It is strongly recommended to use an all steel line from the fuel pump all the way to the carburetor. Current technology fuel hose should be used only to connect the steel line to the fuel filter.

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Can an Electric fuel pump be added to Studebakers?

There is a complete write up on electric fuel pumps in the June 2000 Turning Wheels which will be added later. There is a new 6 volt electric fuel pump from Airtex Model #E8011 about $92. This pump can be used for either positive or negative grounds. The pump itself must be electrically isolated from its mounting bracket, so it will work on the positive or negative grounds. Persons with 6 volt systems formerly had to choose between Rotary Vane or Bellows Type electric pumps.  The Rotary Vane pump will not allow the stock mechanical pump to pull fuel through if one wants to shut off the electric pump for any reason once the engine is running. The Bellows pump will allow the mechanical pumps to pull  through if desired, but there are serious reliability problems with this pump. The Airtex is a good alternative.

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Should I be concerned about wheel failure on my Studebaker that is 30 years and older? Can I tell if the wheels are original?

About the only way to tell if the wheels are original is to compaaare them with an original picture, that I have included below 

Note the secondary ring just outside the nuts. There are "nubs" on that ring over which small hub caps would be snapped onto. Wheel failure is a possibility any time a radial tire is used on a wheel that was not designed or approved for radial tire use. It might not be common, but it is still a possibility. The possibility increases when you use a tire that is too wide for a given wheel. The RMA (Rubber Manufacturers Association) and the NWRA (National Wheel and Rim Association) recommend that 205 and 215 tires be mounted on wheels from 5 1/2 to 6 1/2" wide; 225 tires should be mounted on wheels from 6 to 8" wide. The Cooper Lifeliner Classic P215/70r15 is engineered for a wheel between 5 1/2 to 7" wide. That tire's 26.78" outside diameter is slightly smaller that the original 6.70X15 tires that came on the cars.

Many wheels from both Ford and Chrysler rear-wheel-rive applications in the late 70s through early 80s will work fine, but you must pay attention to dimensions. Wheels you are looking for have a 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Use the 5 lug pattern from the picture below to mesure your wheels with a 4" backspace.

Back space is measured by placing a straight edge across the back of the wheel/rim and measuring into the mounting face. I recently took a set of wheels from a 1984 Lincoln and found them to be 15X6 1/2" with a 4" back space. They would fit your Studebaker. In any case, check fender clearance thoroughly and carefully on an Studebaker. Remember to allow for suspension travel and turning radius with the car loaded; Just because there appears to be enough clearance sitting stationary with no one in it doesn't mean there will be clearance loaded and underway. Rubbing a tire on a fender will cause damage. If you use Ford wheels, you must change to 13/16" lug nuts as well. Studebaker 3/4" lug nuts will easily pull through a Ford wheel. Don't forget to change your lug wrench, or keep a 4-way in the trunk, when you change lug nut sizes.The wheel covers will fit either Ford or Chrysler applicable wheels just fine. Good luck.

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Rear axle end play adjustments and how it works.

If you look at the center of the above picture the horizontal thrust block can be seen, it is between the side bevel gears and around the shaft that supports the differential pinion gears at the top and bottom of the differential case. The thrust block stops the axles at the correct distance into the side bevel gears so the bearings at the end of each axle will have the correct end play. The left side axle (drivers side) must  have zero clearance from the thrust block to the outside race on the bearing at the end of the axle (drivers side). The right side axle will have from .001 to .006 clearance that is controlled by shims between the end of the axle housing and the brake backing plate. The clearance is on the right side axle (passenger side) so any force placed on the ring gear differential case will try to force the ring gear to the right and not to the left. This is because the ring gear is set with .003 clearance to the left of the pinion and any more clearance would put excess pressure on the teeth of the ring and pinion gears.

This is the differential and rear axle exploded view. In the above paragraph items  20 (differential case), 16 (pinion), 22 (ring gear), 24 (side bevel gears), 26 (differential pinion), 27 (shaft), 31 (thrust block), 32 (axle)  were discussed.

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Electronic ignition replacing the points with Crane products, for Prestolite distributor. Go to <summitracing.com>  and search for Crane Cams and order the XR700 part number crn-700-0231 FireBall points conversion ignition kit, and from Pertronix buy the Flame-Thrower coil part number pnx-40011.  Now you are ready to convert your Studebaker from points to  pointless electronic ignition. The first step will be to fine the number 1 plug on the car and to check the engine to see that the timing marks on the crank shaft line up on the timing marks and that the rotor on the distributor lines up with the number 1 spark plug wire. I put a dot of white paint next to  the number 1 spark plug wire and took the distributor cap off to see for sure the rotor was lined up with the number 1 wire.  For the Prestolite distributor on a v8 the thin walled shutter is used. The thin walled shutter will mis the post where the existing points are mounted. The shutter has no metal tabs to press tight agents the cam lobs so take thin aluminum (about .005, most hardware stores will carry this type aluminum in a roll about 12 inches wide and 2 or 3 ft long.) and cut four T shaped peaces and slip them  in four of the slots next to the inside cam lobs on the shutter. There is a slot by each cam lobe. You can put some contact glue on each T shaped peace to hold them in position.You will use the FireBall XR700 instructions to replace the points and add the electronic ignition box and the new Flame-Thrower coil. The first step is to remove the distributor cap and the rotor from inside the distributor. Now you are ready to remove the points and condenser from the distributor. By using the thin shutter for you v8, the post that the points are mounted to   will not will not   need to be cut off  the distributor plate. If the electronic box would ever fail then the points could be placed back on the distributor plate the you would be up and running. This is a nice backup. OK now with the points and condenser removed you are ready to put in the trigger and shutter for the electronic ignition. You will follow the Universal 4-6-8 cylinder distributor adjustable bracket kit to install the trigger and shutter. With the engine still set to the timing mark the distributor will also still be set on the number one plug wire you can set up the trigger to fire at this phisical location and your car will be timed correctly. When you install the trigger and shutter rout the wires so they do not come in contact with the rotor or the shutter. I mounted the electronics box on the fender on the passenger side of my HAWK, as there are two bolts that hold a brace on the underside of the fender. I made a bracket that mounted to the two bolts and i use 4 screws to mount the box to the bracket. The length of the wires on the box will go from the box to the firewall and then back to the coil that is mounted on the back of the intake manifold. Your old coil can be replace with the new Flame-Thrower and you will be ready to set the trigger to the correct timing. There is a LED on the electronic box that will come on when the trigger is set to the correct place. There are very good instructions in the FireBall installation manual. The trigger can be mounted any place on the distrbutor plate as the engine is still set to the correct timing marks from the work already done.   The XR700 installation instructions are very good, If you have questions e-mail me at the address at the top of this list.

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Throttle return spring breakage: If this spring would brake with the car in gear the driver could lose control and cause big damage. Remove the spring and look at each end for any ware or if the spring has any rust it should be replaced. That will assure the throttle does not go wide open when the driver is not expecting a fast take off.

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Can the rear drums be removed from the hubs so the break lines and cylinders can be services with out pulling the hub? If you are going to use my method for the rear axle drum and hub i should tell you the steps i go through. You should go to this site
http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=123 and get the mill to remove the studs from the hub It will make the job much easy-er, I used a small cutting wheel on a drill to re moved the excess swaging from the stud before removing the drum. The mill will give a much better and cleaner job and will not bed the drum center face and my original method did. How to remove the drum from the hub:
1:) Get a mill from the web site above for the size of your studs and cut away the swaging from the stud, make sure not to cut the surface of the drum. If you do not have a mill a 1 to 2 inch cutting wheel can be used in a hand drill. In either case b very careful not to damage the threads on the studs.
2:) Use a thin screw driver to lift the center of the drum face so a large square shank-ed screw drive can be inserted between the center drum face and the hub. Drive the square shank ed screw driver in on each side of each stud and then use a wench on the square shank to turn the screw driver to lift the drum face up and off of the stud. You must work around the hub on each stud so you and lifting the hub off the studs evenly. This process will bend the center face of the drum but we will fix this in the next step. Before the drum is removed from the hub put some paint ( white ) on the drum and one stud. This will leave the drum on the hub in the same location as original and the center plain and any balancing will be correct.
3:) With the drum off the hub use an old flanged axle from another car is used to flatten the center of the drum using a large hammer. The drum is now ready to have the final step done before putting it back on the hub.
4:) Use a square file to remove any burs from the base of each stud on the hub. Now use a round file to remove any burs from each stud hole in the drum so it will go back on the hub without any interference, but not loose. With the drum in place the rim with tire can be mounted on the studs and the nuts replaced. This will hold the drum in place and will as the rum and the next time you need to inspect or do any maintenance the hub will not need to be pulled. The tire can be removed and that will allow the drum to be removed as well.

I think this will give you a better idea of what and how i did the job on my 62 GT Hawk and 63 Cruiser. The brakes on both are the same as when the drums were swaged. The axles on both are 44's 

Adding an Electric fuel pump is a safety concern for older cars and trucks. If you want to add the fuel pump then a roll-over inertia switch should be added.
One like used in the late model Ford products can be used. It is easy to install and will stop the fuel pump in the event of an accident. The Car Quest auto parts number for the switch is (6l5z9341a and the 3 wire connector is 96-7552). I would consider such a switch a "MUST" when installing an electric fuel pump. The Ford switch has a manual reset, so they can be reset if activated by a bump or some other minor disturbance. When installing the switch make sure the switch is level and mounted in a vertical position. The car / truck should be level also to have correct operation.  Mount the switch so you would have easy accesse if it is tripped. Most Ford produts so equipped have the access port in the trunk or passenger side pannel just in front of the door interior where the switch control may be accessed if a reset is required. The switch has a normally open side so that wire can be used to turn on a light on the dash so the driver will know if the switch is tripped and needs to be reset.

Make sure to mount the inertia switch in a vertical position on a solid part of the body of the car or truck. Put it in a place where it will be protected from water and other road material.

The image above and in the link below have been changed 6-20-07
The fuel tank unit in the middle left side of the above electrical diagram is the fuel pump, and the inertia switch just to the right of the fuel pump. The normally open contact of the inertia switch is not used in the diagram. I included a hand written diagram of a simple connection that can be used on an older truck or car. The normally open contact (3) of the inertia switch can be used to turn on a small 12 / 6 volt light on the dash so the driver will know if the inertia switch has opened and need to be reset before the car or truck will start. The link below will open a page with a large electric diagram that is shown above so you will be able to read it with out a magnifying glass, but the load time for the large diagram is long so be ready for a wait before printing.Make sure the inertia switch is in series with the fuel pump and on the hot or 12/6 volt side as show in the above diagram. The inertia switch has to open the hot lead going to the fuel bump to stop it during an accident.

Changing Oil Formulations

We have long recommended C-rated (Compression Ignition) diesel-engine motor oil for contemporary use in Studebaker Engines. Modern S-rated (Spark Ignition) motor oil is formulated for today's passenger car and light truck engines having roller lifters and catalytic converters. Oil companies removed the zinc compounds needed by our older engines with higher-friction, so-called flat-top valve lifters and associated camshafts because those compounds shorten catalytic converter life.
Diesel-engine oils retained a higher level of zinc compound, but times are changing. More stringent diesel emissions requirements and subsequent diesel technology have resulted in a new CJ-4, API (American Petroleum Institute) diesel oil formulation. This designation is in addition to, and will probably ultimately replace, the older CI-4 and CI-4 plus ratings. CJ-4 rated oil contains only a trace of the needed zinc compound for our older engines and we do not recommend it for them. Common brands of C-rated oil (either rating) include Shell Rotella-t, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo-400, Kendall GT-1 Diesel Motor Oil, Car Quest CQO-CQ645 Fleet Plus 15W-40W, and Castrol Tection Extra. We are not recommending those brands as there are others just as good as long as the rating is CI-4 or CI-4 plus. As of April 12, 2007 I've seen both CI-4 and CJ-4 formulations next to each other on the shelves with the same brand name! Be certain to read the information in the little API circle logo on the back of the bottle or jug of the prefered brand. Look for oil without the new CJ-4 rating. We will keep you informed of these changes as they occur.

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SDCer Kieth Ogden reported a dead short on a 1964 champ pickup. When the battery was reconnected after winter storage the battery was drained in just one day. The problem was a short in the brake light switch on the firewall mounted master cylinder. The switch had shorted to ground internally over the winter. When investigating this always-hot (unfused, unswitched) circuit, the positive wire to the switch was so hot it could not be touched. The heat from the internal short had slightly melted the insulation from both terminal boots. Keith's experience again underscores our continuing campaign to encourage, at the least, disconnecting batteries from vehicles in storage. Even more to the point would be adding a major fusible link between the wiring harness and the stud on the side of the starter solenoid, the stud from which current is drawn to power all of the vehicle's electrical system except the starter motor itself.
The way to protect your vehicle's wiring harness it to install a 10-gauge feed wire and a 14-gauge fusible link.

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 Member James S. Davis, an architect from San Antonio TX, has taken the problem of converting a Studebaker from 6 volts to 12 volts in hand and been kin enough to send the following article detailing such a conversion. He adds that anyone who wants to should feel free to write him about this project. His address:
James S. Davis
5719 Kenwick
San Antonio -TX -78238

I don't suggest anyone making this conversion unless they feel it necessary. I'm a bit of a purist. Just the same I have seen to many jerry rigged cars and a few that I would not want to get into for fear of fire and thought this might keep a few Studes running that otherwise might be junked or burned.
If you see any errors, feel free to correct them. I tried to catch all of the loose ends, but no one is perfect.
Any questions I can answer please feel free to contact me. J. S. D.

The following are my experiences in converting a 1955 commander from 6 volts to 12 volts. The same process should apply to any pre 1956 6 volt Studebaker model.

First of all to avoid legal problems and criticism 2 point need to be made. Before beginning any work based on the information I am about to provide the accuracy and applicability should be verified with someone knowledgeable in such manners. Secondly, the 6 volt system as originally installed in pre 1956 Studebaker's was very adequate. I do not recommend altering it with out good reason. In my case I drive my Studebaker daily and on many log trips. The 12 volt system has allowed me to be able to easily locate electrical parts should they fail on the road. It has also allowed me to install a 1957 vintage after market trunk mount air conditioning unit.

For the project to be really useful it will also be necessary to change from positive to negative ground. During this discussion existing negative post or wire refers to that connection that was negative during the original configuration.

If you do not convert to negative ground modern accessories can not be used and the 1956 fan motor may run backward unless rewired. If you follow these directions when you are finished all systems will operate on 12 volts and will be negative ground.

Step 1: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY

GENERATOR: Replace with 12 volt generator as used on 1956 model, or replace with a modified alternator as is sold by the Western Lake Erie chapter of SDC or use a 10si as listed in the (alternator swap GM wiring)  as listed in this data base. I would strongly suggest using the alternator if you are contemplating adding air conditioning or any other large accessories. Installation is simple, does not alter the existing wiring and is fully explained in the instructions that come with it. Replace the voltage regulator with Studebaker part from a 1956 model if you are using a Generator.

IGNITION: Here we have to replace the coil with a new 12 volt coil. Be sure when installing to reverse the wires going to it. The wire that had previously gone to the positive post of the coil now goes to the negative and the wire that previously went to the negative post of the coil now goes to the positive post.

Before hooking up the positive wire place a ballast resistor in the circuit between the positive coil post and the wire going to it. One like that which was used on early GM cars is commonly available at most parts houses. The remainder of the ignition can remain as is.

STARTER: Strange as it my seem, the standard 6 volt starter will in most cases work just fine on 12 volts. Do not run the starter too long (30 seconds at a time) however. The option is to either modify a 1956 starter motor drive gear or replace the flywheel ring gear with a 1956 ring gear to match the drive on a stock 1956 starter motor. I have tried neither. Not to worry, the 6 volt starter will not run backwards when the voltage is reversed (negative ground). Replace the starter relay with Studebaker part from a 1956 model, or use a Ford type from your local auto parts store.

OVERDRIVE: Replace dash mounted relay with Studebaker part from a 1956 model. Replace solenoids on the transmission with Studebaker parts from a 1956 model.

ELECTRICAL: Replace the wiper motor with Studebaker part from a 1956 model. Replace the Climitiser motor with Studebaker part from a 1956 model. Replace the defroster motor with Studebaker part from a 1956 model. The shaft hole in the fan will need to be drilled out slightly to accept the slightly larger shaft on the 1956 motor. Use a drill press if possible to ensure that the hole is straight and square. Replace the horns with Studebaker parts from a 1956 model. Replace all of the light bulbs, including the head lamps, turn signal lamps, parking and brake lamps, turn signal and high beam indicator lamps, dash lamps and dome lamp, with 12 volt light bulbs. Replace the horn relay with a 12 volt universal relay. Replace the turn signal flasher with a 12 volt heavy duty universal or Studebaker part from a 1956 model. It may be necessary to build jumper wires to connect it to the existing socket as the mounting pin arrangement is not identical. In some cases such as the fan motors ballast resistors could be used to drop the voltage. I do not recommend this however. There are 2 problems with ballast resistors. 1: When using a ballast resistor you require twice the power to operate the motor, causing a strain on the generator / alternator. 2: resistors produce heat that may be hazardous it improperly placed. In addition ballast resistors will not wok satisfactorily on gauges.

GAUGES: Now the fun begins. All of the gauges are designed for 6 volt operation. To hook them up to 12 volts will burn them out and possibly their sending units also. I found the easiest way to correct this problem was to build a voltage reducer, the diagram and parts for it are included at the end of this article. (Figure 1): When building the voltage reducer, drill several holes in the box to allow for ventilation and mount in an area under the dash that does not get excessively warm (i.e.., keep it away from the defroster ducts, etc.) Radio shack, at the time I built the voltage reducer, sold only a 5 volt regulator chip. They may now have a 6 volt chip. The 5 volt chip does a good job; however, for finer accuracy in the fuel gauge you might try and find a 6 volt chip. Such a 6 volt chip would carry the code number LM7806 regardless of manufacturer. The rest of the circuit would remain unchanged. Do not attempt to run anything other than 2 gauges maximum off this circuit. Any larger load will damage the circuit and possibly what it is that you are trying to power.

1: remove the existing positive lead from the back of the gauge and re-hook it to the negative post (after removing the existing negative post connections). 2: If the existing negative post was used a junction terminal be sure to secure all of the wires together and insulate. (Figure 2) Next run a wire from one of the original negative gauge leads to the voltage reducer power input post. Finally hook the voltage reducer power output leads to the existing positive posts of the gauges. (Figure 2)

BATTERY: Get yourself a 12 volt battery that will fit the tray. Hook negative to ground via the strap to the engine block. Hook positive to the starter relay.

CHECK: Immediately after hooking up the battery check for warm wires, smoke or burning, particularly around the ignition switch and starter relay. No, I'm not kidding, it doesn't hurt to be careful. Turn the ignition on and again check for warm wires, etc. This time check all of your new wiring and installations. Check fans, windshield wipers, turn signals, headlamps, brake lamps, gas gauge, etc. For proper operation. Start the car and test all systems. Check for warm wires etc.

All of the 1956 parts fit identically as did the original in my 1955 application with the exceptions that were noted in the text. My special thanks to Bill McDowell of Packard Farm who verified the interchangeability of parts before I started. JSD.

 

The picture above shows James' diagram for the voltage regulator for the gauges. To print it select file then print view and in page setup change the page size to 90 % and print just that page. Below is the parts list of the materials needed to build the regulator, with the item number in the list below corresponding to the large numbers on the diagrams proceeding.

5 volt regulator parts list (part numbers are for radio shack)

Item    qty    part description                part #        price ea.    Total
1    2    lm7805 5 volt regulator            276-1770    1.19        2.38
2    2    0.1 mfd capacitor                    272-135       .49 *        .49
3    1    safety barrier strip                    274-658     1.49        1.49
4    2    Fuse holder                             270-739       .79 *        .79
5    2    1 amp fuse (fast acting)            270-1273     .69 **     .69
6    2    heat sink                                  276-1363     .79        1.58
7    1    experimenters project Box        270-283    3.29        3.29
8    1    18 gauge stranded wire        278-1303       2.19 ***    2.19

* 2 per package
** 3 per package
*** 3 spools, 3 colors per package

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Avanti gas line rust (fire) problem

http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/orig_gas_lines.txt     This site has the same information as below. Gary Crabtree

The problem is so potentially dangerous for owners of at least Studebaker Avantis 9I cannot speak to the Avanti lls) on which the original fuel lines have rot been replaced, that I an going to cut and paste from my book the section where I describe the Problem and the solution - replace the fuel lines. I aPo1ogize for this being so long, but take this seriously. It could save your car from burning up or your house or shop from burning down. It could save some lives. Here goes from p. 56 of my book: Finally, check the fuel lines at the point where they pass through the body and spring hanger bracket in front of the left rear wheel. you will need to remove the wheel to adequately inspect this area. Notice how both lines are encased in rubber tubing (at least they will be if the lines are still original). Apparently the lines were encased in this rubber tubing to protect them from rocks that might hit them from the tires or from the rubbing action that might take place inside the bracket.

I am sure that made good sense to Studebaker engineers, but what they did not count on is that People like you and me would still be driving these cars almost forty years later. Over time, moisture has gotten between the rubber and the tubing and has been the best possible breeding ground for rust. If your fuel lines in this area have not been properly replaced, you almost certainty have a disaster just waiting to happen. remember, the return line is pumping fuel back to the tank—under pressure—which means that the minute a leak occurs in that line it could be spraying gas all over the place, including onto hot, exhaust system parts. Lest you think I am being an alarmist, do a little test. Carefully cut away about an inch of the rubber cover at the end behind the rear wheel. What kind of shape is the steel in there? Mine was almost paper—thin, and this is not at all unusual on cars still having the original fuel lines.

When you are convinced that it is time to replace these lines, here is what you will need and how to do it. First, drain all the fuel out of your tank. Look along the outer side of the frame in the general area of the driver’s door, and you should see a brass Tee with a drain plug. Taking all the common sense precautions, drain the fuel and transfer it to a fuel storage can. remove all the routing clamps that hold the fuel lines in place and mark the threaded holes in the frame with chalk so you can easily find them again when installing the new lines. It will also help if you will carefully observe the routing of the line; and if it is to be some months before you install the new ones, you might want to draw a “map” or take some pictures before ripping out the old lines.

Now here is what you will need to replace those lines. For the supply line you will need four pieces of 3/8” O.D. brake line in the following lengths and sequence working from back to front: 30”; union; 40”; Tee with drain plug; 60”; union; 20” piece cut to length at the front for the rubber tubing that goes to the fuel pimp.

For the return fuel line, us three pieces of 1/4” O.D. Brake line in the following lengths and sequence, working from back to front: 63” (cut to 55”); union; 12”; union; 60” cut to length at the fuel pump.

It naturally is easier to install these with the body off, but it can be done with the body on. In the case of the supply line I found it easiest to work from the drain Tee to the front and the rear, putting in the necessary bends as you thread the tubing into place. With the return line, I cut the 60” piece to 55” and worked from the area where it connected to the rubber fuel line that goes to the tank return at the left end of the cross memter, down the side rail through the spring bracket and then on forward.

If you are a stickler for authenticity (and that’s the way to maximize Your Avanti’s value), you will want to install the new pieces of rubber protective hose on the tubing in front of the rear wheel. Measure the length of the old protective pieces and buy new rubber tubing of the correct ID to slip over the l/4” and 3/8” metal tubing. Since both pieces of tubing have had the fitting end cut off at the rear cross-member end, you can slip the rubber tubing on from that end down to the area where it belongs. Use a little silicone grease to lubricate the pieces if the fit is too tight.

But you are not done until you have done one more thing. As a safety measure, use hose clamps or black silicone rubber cement to seal off the area between the protective rubber tubing and the metal tubing that runs through it. Yes, do both ends. You do not want this to once again become the breeding ground for rust. I used the silicone rubber approach so it would not disturb the appearance of authenticity.

One last detail on the installation of the steel fuel line. At the left front corner of the engine, do not let the fuel line touch, either the head or the engine block. If it does touch, heat will be transferred to the fuel line and cause gas in the line to boil, thus causing vapor lock. Also avoid allowing the line to touch the power steer pump body.

Okay, everyone, go check this out on your car now. I will be curious as to how many still have the original cased in rubber tubing in front of the driver's side rear wheel and how many have rusty fuel lines hidden beneath that rubber.

4/5/2005 4:46 PM page 1 of 1

Stan Gundry, Author / Publisher

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his is the next problem